Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revision Previous revision
stickyencoder [2007/05/20 19:45]
127.0.0.1 external edit
stickyencoder [2018/10/28 20:20] (current)
n5na
Line 11: Line 11:
   -As you turn the knob within the skirt, the tabs move forward from the edge of the skirt; at each detent, the tabs are set further forward. You can quickly visualize how knob drag is introduced: ​ When the tabs are further forward, they press harder against the cellophane disk on the panel (which serves to provide a friction "​bearing"​ for the felt tabs). They introduce more or less drag, depending on the number of detents you use.   -As you turn the knob within the skirt, the tabs move forward from the edge of the skirt; at each detent, the tabs are set further forward. You can quickly visualize how knob drag is introduced: ​ When the tabs are further forward, they press harder against the cellophane disk on the panel (which serves to provide a friction "​bearing"​ for the felt tabs). They introduce more or less drag, depending on the number of detents you use.
   -There are supposed to be felt pieces mounted on each of the two copper tabs.  In my case, the felt was missing, and there was no sign they were ever present. ​ They may have been removed by a previous owner or they may have been left off from the start. ​ Had I attempted to introduce drag to my turning knob (p. 2-3 of Omni VI Plus instruction manual, section 2-5), the copper tabs would have scratched and damaged the cellophane disk and the plastic panel.   -There are supposed to be felt pieces mounted on each of the two copper tabs.  In my case, the felt was missing, and there was no sign they were ever present. ​ They may have been removed by a previous owner or they may have been left off from the start. ​ Had I attempted to introduce drag to my turning knob (p. 2-3 of Omni VI Plus instruction manual, section 2-5), the copper tabs would have scratched and damaged the cellophane disk and the plastic panel.
-  -To replace worn felt, or place felt on the copper tabs if they are absent, buy a 46 felt piece sheet from Shepherd Hardware Products, Three Oaks MI 49128-0394, part number 9423.  http://​doityourself.com/​invt/​5703657. The item is entitled "​Surface Guard" - 46 pieces, light duty felt blanket. Or find felt strips with self-adhesive. Pick two smallest pieces, and cut them into a square approximating the square copper tabs.  Remove the backing, and allow the self-adhesive to hold each piece onto each copper tab. Or find some thin felt and try Duco cement (Ace hardware).+  -To replace worn felt, or place felt on the copper tabs if they are absent, buy a 46 felt piece sheet. The item is entitled "​Surface Guard" - 46 pieces, light duty felt blanket. Or find felt strips with self-adhesive. Pick two smallest pieces, and cut them into a square approximating the square copper tabs.  Remove the backing, and allow the self-adhesive to hold each piece onto each copper tab. Or find some thin felt and try Duco cement (Ace hardware).
   -In my case, when I turned the tuning shaft by hand, I noticed binding was still present over 90 degrees of rotation, even though the knob was removed. ​ If so, you have some work ahead of you. You must remove the encoder, but first remove the thin cellophane circular disk from the panel, by gently using a small, thin screwdriver to get hold of one edge.  Working slowly and carefully, pull the cellophane forward until you can grasp a section with thumb and forefinger. ​ Now, very slowly, pull the entire cellophane disk off and put it into a zip lock bag with a label. ​ You want to avoid tearing the cellophane disk. There is plenty of adhesive left on the panel for reapplication later.   -In my case, when I turned the tuning shaft by hand, I noticed binding was still present over 90 degrees of rotation, even though the knob was removed. ​ If so, you have some work ahead of you. You must remove the encoder, but first remove the thin cellophane circular disk from the panel, by gently using a small, thin screwdriver to get hold of one edge.  Working slowly and carefully, pull the cellophane forward until you can grasp a section with thumb and forefinger. ​ Now, very slowly, pull the entire cellophane disk off and put it into a zip lock bag with a label. ​ You want to avoid tearing the cellophane disk. There is plenty of adhesive left on the panel for reapplication later.
   -You'​re going to have to remove the encoder now.  Work on a blanket placed on your workbench. To do so, remove the bottom and top rig panels by using a Phillips screwdriver on four black screws on each side. Once the panels are off, on each side near the front of the rig, there are two machine screws with washers that must be removed. ​ Now, you can gently slide the front panel of the rig forward a little bit, allowing you to remove the tuning knob encoder. ​ You have to remove a four prong wiring harness from the encoder first; it is easy to slide it backward. ​ Locate a ½ inch Sears, Ace or SK Hex driver piece with a square or round hole in the center. Wrap several layers of electrical tape around the body of the hex driver. Tape a cloth over the front panel, use a pair of slender pliers to grip the hex piece from the side and loosen the nut that holds the encoder to the front panel. Take care to avoid scratching the front panel. ​ The encoder can now be worked free through the bottom of the rig. My encoder in the Omni VI Plus was an Oak Grigsby 90Q125-02-00245.   -You'​re going to have to remove the encoder now.  Work on a blanket placed on your workbench. To do so, remove the bottom and top rig panels by using a Phillips screwdriver on four black screws on each side. Once the panels are off, on each side near the front of the rig, there are two machine screws with washers that must be removed. ​ Now, you can gently slide the front panel of the rig forward a little bit, allowing you to remove the tuning knob encoder. ​ You have to remove a four prong wiring harness from the encoder first; it is easy to slide it backward. ​ Locate a ½ inch Sears, Ace or SK Hex driver piece with a square or round hole in the center. Wrap several layers of electrical tape around the body of the hex driver. Tape a cloth over the front panel, use a pair of slender pliers to grip the hex piece from the side and loosen the nut that holds the encoder to the front panel. Take care to avoid scratching the front panel. ​ The encoder can now be worked free through the bottom of the rig. My encoder in the Omni VI Plus was an Oak Grigsby 90Q125-02-00245.

QR Code
QR Code stickyencoder (generated for current page)