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565ritencoder [2009/08/25 20:34] n5na |
565ritencoder [2018/10/28 17:33] (current) n5na |
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| ====== Changing Out the Orion RIT Encoder ====== | ====== Changing Out the Orion RIT Encoder ====== | ||
| - | **From the Ten-Tec Reflector February 20, 2006** | ||
| - | Follow the disassembly instructions to perform the version 2 hardware modification for improved sweep. These are on the Ten-Tec website: | + | For starters, follow the {{orion_v2_logic_mod.pdf|disassembly instructions}} to disassemble the front panel. |
| - | + | ||
| - | http://radio.tentec.com/file_download/79/Orion+V2+Logic+Mod.pdf | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | Starting from that disassembly: | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | http://www.bosshardradio.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=orion_rit | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | This takes at least as long to do as the version 2 modification. | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | 73, John KE5C | + | |
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| I just completed replacing all of the mechanical encoders (6) on my Orion 1 and thought I'd share some info. | I just completed replacing all of the mechanical encoders (6) on my Orion 1 and thought I'd share some info. | ||
| - | + | ||
| Only 1 was bad (had dead spots), but I had this bright idea that I would replace them all so I wouldn't have to do it again anytime soon. | Only 1 was bad (had dead spots), but I had this bright idea that I would replace them all so I wouldn't have to do it again anytime soon. | ||
| - | + | ||
| This did complicate things a bit, but did solve the problem I knew I had with one, and made one other work much smoother. | This did complicate things a bit, but did solve the problem I knew I had with one, and made one other work much smoother. | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | KE5C made a series of photos detailing how to get to the encoder board and replace an encoder (http://www.w4ish.net/Manuals/pdf/Orion%20RIT%20Encoder%20Replacement.pdf). This is a very good starting point. I've listed some details I had to deal with replacing them all. | + | |
| - | + | ||
| One additional thing I ran into: The VFO A and B encoder shafts pass through a bearing. The knob screws had been tightened down so tightly, that a 'nick' was left on the shafts; large enough to not allow it pass through the bearing. I had to polish this down to get these encoders out. | One additional thing I ran into: The VFO A and B encoder shafts pass through a bearing. The knob screws had been tightened down so tightly, that a 'nick' was left on the shafts; large enough to not allow it pass through the bearing. I had to polish this down to get these encoders out. | ||
| - | + | ||
| Here are the details: | Here are the details: | ||
| - | + | ||
| -The BEST thing would be to order the connector and bare board from Ten-Tec if they have these items available, and put new encodes on it. | -The BEST thing would be to order the connector and bare board from Ten-Tec if they have these items available, and put new encodes on it. | ||
| -Take great care in handling the board that has the gold contacts for the ‘chicklet’ keys. I consider this a design weakness in the Orion. Not only are such keys mushy, they are easy to damage. Tactile switches with hinged buttons would have been so much better. While they work, it does complicate handling this board when servicing. I used close knit cotton gloves when handling it and made sure the room was as dust free as possible. Also made sure to wash my hands before any handling of this board, before putting the gloves on. It’s very easy to cause these things to bounce or not work at all. Oil on the pads or dust on the rubber contact inside the switch will cause all kinds of problems. The smaller section of rubber ‘switches’ will stay on the board pretty easily, but not the section around the LCD opening. This board and the chicklets were covered after the encoder board was removed. | -Take great care in handling the board that has the gold contacts for the ‘chicklet’ keys. I consider this a design weakness in the Orion. Not only are such keys mushy, they are easy to damage. Tactile switches with hinged buttons would have been so much better. While they work, it does complicate handling this board when servicing. I used close knit cotton gloves when handling it and made sure the room was as dust free as possible. Also made sure to wash my hands before any handling of this board, before putting the gloves on. It’s very easy to cause these things to bounce or not work at all. Oil on the pads or dust on the rubber contact inside the switch will cause all kinds of problems. The smaller section of rubber ‘switches’ will stay on the board pretty easily, but not the section around the LCD opening. This board and the chicklets were covered after the encoder board was removed. | ||
