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516tunebtn [2007/04/14 01:46] n5na created |
516tunebtn [2007/05/21 00:42] (current) |
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| The final method is to leave a PTT microphone connected to the mic jack and press the microphone's button to generate a carrier in CW mode. Then, however, the microphone and cord will tend to get in your way while you are working CW, and in the case of a hand mic, you have to grab the microphone in order to press the button. This is less ergonomic than simply pressing a stationary button on the front of the rig. In addition, I don't like to leave a microphone plugged into the rig, because non-ham visitors are always tempted to pick it up and say "10-4, good buddy!". This irks me to no end! | The final method is to leave a PTT microphone connected to the mic jack and press the microphone's button to generate a carrier in CW mode. Then, however, the microphone and cord will tend to get in your way while you are working CW, and in the case of a hand mic, you have to grab the microphone in order to press the button. This is less ergonomic than simply pressing a stationary button on the front of the rig. In addition, I don't like to leave a microphone plugged into the rig, because non-ham visitors are always tempted to pick it up and say "10-4, good buddy!". This irks me to no end! | ||
| - | All you need to add a tune button to the Argonaut V is a microphone connector compatible with the rig (a spare one comes with the rig), and a $2.69 Radio Shack push button, item # 275-1571, or click on this link: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=275-1571 | + | All you need to add a tune button to the Argonaut V is a microphone connector compatible with the rig (a spare one comes with the rig), and a $2.69 Radio Shack push button, item # [[http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062546&cp|275-1571.]] |
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| + | {{rs275-1571.jpg?150|Radio Shack 275-1571}} | ||
| This is a very small, cylindrical, SPST momentary switch that can fit inside the mic connector so that only the tiny black button (which matches the Argonaut) extends out the back of the connector. (Radio Shack also carries a red button, if you prefer.) | This is a very small, cylindrical, SPST momentary switch that can fit inside the mic connector so that only the tiny black button (which matches the Argonaut) extends out the back of the connector. (Radio Shack also carries a red button, if you prefer.) | ||
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| -Solder two, three-inch, insulated, solid (not stranded), narrow gauge wires to the button's two pins. Make sure that the solder connections don't protrude much from the pins in any direction, since this may cause a short when the connector is reassembled. | -Solder two, three-inch, insulated, solid (not stranded), narrow gauge wires to the button's two pins. Make sure that the solder connections don't protrude much from the pins in any direction, since this may cause a short when the connector is reassembled. | ||
| - | + | -Remove the tiny screw on the connector's side (don't lose it!), disassemble the connector, and loosen the two screws that hold the connector's collar in place. | |
| - | -Remove the tiny screw on the connector's side (don't lose it!), disassemble the connector, and loosen the two screws that hold the | + | |
| - | connector's collar in place. | + | |
| -Slip the button into the connector so that the wires stick out the other end (the end that will face the rig when the connector is plugged in). Push the switch into the connector so that the button, and about 1/4 inch of the body of the switch, protrude from the connector. Pushing the button in too far may cause a short. | -Slip the button into the connector so that the wires stick out the other end (the end that will face the rig when the connector is plugged in). Push the switch into the connector so that the button, and about 1/4 inch of the body of the switch, protrude from the connector. Pushing the button in too far may cause a short. | ||
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| -Tighten the two screws on the connector's collar just enough to prevent the button from moving when you press it. If you tighten these screws too much, you will crush the switch. | -Tighten the two screws on the connector's collar just enough to prevent the button from moving when you press it. If you tighten these screws too much, you will crush the switch. | ||
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| -Cut the wires to the minimum length needed to permit you to solder their free ends to the two lower pins of the connector (the PTT and ground pins). Before soldering, check how the connector mates with the rig's mic jack to be sure which pins are the two lower ones. | -Cut the wires to the minimum length needed to permit you to solder their free ends to the two lower pins of the connector (the PTT and ground pins). Before soldering, check how the connector mates with the rig's mic jack to be sure which pins are the two lower ones. | ||
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| -Solder the two wires to the two lower pins of the mic connector. It does not matter which wire goes to which of these two pins. | -Solder the two wires to the two lower pins of the mic connector. It does not matter which wire goes to which of these two pins. | ||
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| -Reassemble the connector and insert and tighten the tiny screw on its side. | -Reassemble the connector and insert and tighten the tiny screw on its side. | ||
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| -Insert the connector into the rig's mic jack and tighten it down. | -Insert the connector into the rig's mic jack and tighten it down. | ||
