Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revision Previous revision
Next revision
Previous revision
516tunebtn [2007/04/14 01:51]
n5na
516tunebtn [2007/05/21 00:42] (current)
Line 12: Line 12:
 The final method is to leave a PTT microphone connected to the mic jack and press the microphone'​s button to generate a carrier in CW mode.  Then, however, the microphone and cord will tend to get in your way while you are working CW, and in the case of a hand mic, you have to grab the microphone in order to press the button. ​ This is less ergonomic than simply pressing a stationary button on the front of the rig.  In addition, I don't like to leave a microphone plugged into the rig, because non-ham visitors are always tempted to pick it up and say "10-4, good buddy!"​. ​ This irks me to no end! The final method is to leave a PTT microphone connected to the mic jack and press the microphone'​s button to generate a carrier in CW mode.  Then, however, the microphone and cord will tend to get in your way while you are working CW, and in the case of a hand mic, you have to grab the microphone in order to press the button. ​ This is less ergonomic than simply pressing a stationary button on the front of the rig.  In addition, I don't like to leave a microphone plugged into the rig, because non-ham visitors are always tempted to pick it up and say "10-4, good buddy!"​. ​ This irks me to no end!
  
-All you need to add a tune button to the Argonaut V is a microphone connector compatible with the rig (a spare one comes with the rig), and a $2.69 Radio Shack push button, item # 275-1571.+All you need to add a tune button to the Argonaut V is a microphone connector compatible with the rig (a spare one comes with the rig), and a $2.69 Radio Shack push button, item # [[http://​www.radioshack.com/​product/​index.jsp?​productId=2062546&​cp|275-1571.]]
  
 {{rs275-1571.jpg?​150|Radio Shack 275-1571}} {{rs275-1571.jpg?​150|Radio Shack 275-1571}}
Line 21: Line 21:
  
   -Solder two, three-inch, insulated, solid (not stranded), narrow gauge wires to the button'​s two pins.  Make sure that the solder connections don't protrude much from the pins in any direction, since this may cause a short when the connector is reassembled.   -Solder two, three-inch, insulated, solid (not stranded), narrow gauge wires to the button'​s two pins.  Make sure that the solder connections don't protrude much from the pins in any direction, since this may cause a short when the connector is reassembled.
-  -Remove the tiny screw on the connector'​s side (don't lose it!), disassemble the connector, and loosen the two screws that hold the +  -Remove the tiny screw on the connector'​s side (don't lose it!), disassemble the connector, and loosen the two screws that hold the connector'​s collar in place.
-connector'​s collar in place.+
   -Slip the button into the connector so that the wires stick out the other end (the end that will face the rig when the connector is plugged in).  Push the switch into the connector so that the button, and about 1/4 inch of the body of the switch, protrude from the connector. ​ Pushing the button in too far may cause a short.   -Slip the button into the connector so that the wires stick out the other end (the end that will face the rig when the connector is plugged in).  Push the switch into the connector so that the button, and about 1/4 inch of the body of the switch, protrude from the connector. ​ Pushing the button in too far may cause a short.
   -Tighten the two screws on the connector'​s collar just enough to prevent the button from moving when you press it.  If you tighten these screws too much, you will crush the switch.   -Tighten the two screws on the connector'​s collar just enough to prevent the button from moving when you press it.  If you tighten these screws too much, you will crush the switch.

QR Code
QR Code 516tunebtn (generated for current page)