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565ritfix [2011/05/19 16:17] n1eu |
565ritfix [2014/06/21 21:18] n1eu |
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| ====== Orion RIT-XIT Intermittent Encoder Fix ====== | ====== Orion RIT-XIT Intermittent Encoder Fix ====== | ||
| - | //(scroll down for latest/best fix info - earlier info included for historical perspective)// | + | //(scroll down to bottom for latest/best fix info - earlier info included for historical perspective but the earlier suggested fixes did not hold up)// |
| **From the Ten-Tec Reflector January 20, 2005** | **From the Ten-Tec Reflector January 20, 2005** | ||
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| **February 7, 2009** | **February 7, 2009** | ||
| - | After all my work, the intermittent RIT/XIT problem is back! :={ This time I am going to use the standoffs that Ten-Tec sent me so I can mount the front panel away from the case. Then when the control does not work, I can use a plastic stick and touch suspect parts and see if it starts working again. It is not going to be easy because I can make it work again just by pressing on the front panel. That is why some people had said pulling knobs cured the problem. More to come. And I thought for sure I had it when I found the pins with no evidence of rubbing the socket. | + | After all my work, the intermittent RIT/XIT **problem is back**! :={ This time I am going to use the standoffs that Ten-Tec sent me so I can mount the front panel away from the case. Then when the control does not work, I can use a plastic stick and touch suspect parts and see if it starts working again. It is not going to be easy because I can make it work again just by pressing on the front panel. That is why some people had said pulling knobs cured the problem. More to come. And I thought for sure I had it when I found the pins with no evidence of rubbing the socket. |
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| Something I did notice when reassembling the Orion after I replaced all the encoders, is that there is a very slight bow along the control board when the encoder in pressed into it's socket (I assume from the pressure of 24 pins being mechanically 'captive' to 24 socket connections). This might have caused a 'meeting' problem since the section of the header that the RIT encoder goes to is near the center of the string. There are 4, 6 pin sockets mounted end to end, not 1, 24 pin socket. Over time, with a slight alignment difference, the connection could get noisy. | Something I did notice when reassembling the Orion after I replaced all the encoders, is that there is a very slight bow along the control board when the encoder in pressed into it's socket (I assume from the pressure of 24 pins being mechanically 'captive' to 24 socket connections). This might have caused a 'meeting' problem since the section of the header that the RIT encoder goes to is near the center of the string. There are 4, 6 pin sockets mounted end to end, not 1, 24 pin socket. Over time, with a slight alignment difference, the connection could get noisy. | ||
| - | But, the more I look at the schematic, the more I wonder if the problem is actually at J15, after the 100k resistors. This is one of the sockets the logic board plugs into, with very long pins. I note that the picture of that board in the V2 mod doc shows non-gold plated pins. I don't remember if they are on mine or not. This would seem to be the most likely 'bad connection' point. It is also where the lowest current pulses would be. | + | But, the more I look at the schematic, the more I wonder if the **problem is actually at J15**, after the 100k resistors. This is one of the sockets the logic board plugs into, with very long pins. I note that the picture of that board in the V2 mod doc shows non-gold plated pins. I don't remember if they are on mine or not. This would seem to be the most likely 'bad connection' point. It is also where the lowest current pulses would be. |
| This would explain why pressing on the face of the Orion near the Main AF control temporarily fixes the issue as well. | This would explain why pressing on the face of the Orion near the Main AF control temporarily fixes the issue as well. | ||
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| I found that the pins from the logic board to the front panel sockets are indeed tin plated. Luckily the sockets are too (or not so luckily) but in that environment and with no wiping current, tin is not such a good thing. | I found that the pins from the logic board to the front panel sockets are indeed tin plated. Luckily the sockets are too (or not so luckily) but in that environment and with no wiping current, tin is not such a good thing. | ||
| - | I applied the grease (a little tedious but not too bad). I will document it and post it as soon as I see if it's consistent. | + | I applied the grease (a little tedious but not too bad). [N1EU note: see {{:rit_cond_grease_fix.doc}} ] |
| The grease seems to be about the same consistency as white clay with plenty of moisture (thicker than I imagined), but this is a good thing: it will stay put, just a little more difficult to work with. | The grease seems to be about the same consistency as white clay with plenty of moisture (thicker than I imagined), but this is a good thing: it will stay put, just a little more difficult to work with. | ||
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| Anthony, K4ZNO | Anthony, K4ZNO | ||
| + | |||
| + | ---- | ||
| + | **October 2011 - From Ten-Tec Engineering** | ||
| + | |||
| + | The problem comes from having the gold posts on the one board, and then non-gold on the female connector. About 20 pins or so. Over time, as we all know, oxidation occurs because they aren't the same material. Now, in the 566, it isn't a problem, because the female connector used has two "grabbers", so, they normally always have one of the two grabbers locked onto the posts hard. In the 565, there is only one grabber, so, that is why some people get it to work again with the "jerk the RIT knob" trick. It may or may not remove enough oxidation, a few jerks may work, but one too hard can cause other damage. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Step 1 is to try the "jerk the RIT knob" trick. We don't promote it, but in some cases it has been known to work. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Step 2 is to remove the front panel, remove the RIT from the front panel, clean the male connector and female connector very carefully with deoxit (light-red), and if you then have any, a light spray coat with PreservIt (light blue). This second step isn't required, but it would prolong the time between ripping it all apart. Takes about 1.5 hours or so to do it, when you know what you are doing. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Step 3 is to remove the female strip connector, and replace it with the same we use in the 566. | ||
| + | Granted, the same problem can occur, but we have not had any complaints from anyone that we have done step 3 to, or that have an Orion 566. I don't advocate customers doing this, since it is a long strip of solder to remove, and can damage the board in other ways. If you have a professional technician friend, this approach is up to you. | ||
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| + | ---- | ||
| + | **January 2014 - N1EU** | ||
| + | |||
| + | I had the Ten-Tec "step 3" repair above performed on my Orion but it failed again after several months. I decided to try K4ZNO's above fix. I applied the silver conductive grease to the encoder stake pin connector as well as the two vfo encoder connector pairs. You need to remove the front panel and the logic board per the V2 mod instructions. Remove the knobs on the 6 small encoders (see separate knob removal instructions). Remove the screws securing the grounding wire/lugs to the vfo encoders and remove the cables/connectors from the vfo encoders. You then need to remove the ~40 screws securing the front panel pcb in order to lift it up to gain access to remove the threaded nylon bushings securing the 6 encoders to the front panel pcb - use 1/2 in nut driver. You can then lift up the encoder board. I applied the grease with a tooth pick, carefully dabbing each pin. Be very stingy with the grease because it will really spread and ooze out after you remake the connections. When you reassemble, be very careful to not over-tighten the threaded nylon bushings on the 6 encoders or the push switch action will be impaired and control rotation will not be smooth. I would say the job start to finish can be performed in about an hour and there's nothing particularly difficult about it. I will report back in several months if the fix held. | ||
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