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565pwrdistfail [2014/03/22 10:57]
n1eu
565pwrdistfail [2015/03/26 09:19] (current)
n1eu
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 Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 470uf 50WVDC 108C Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 470uf 50WVDC 108C
 3 -C6,C7,C9 $0.69ea 3 -C6,C7,C9 $0.69ea
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 +TIP(1) - Since I did not really care about the condition of the '​original'​ caps on the A9 board, I did a '​distructive removal'​ .... to make the cleaning of the PC board holes easier, and to also prevent overheating the PC board, from trying to remove the old caps (which really are just large heat sinks, when trying to unsolder them from below).
 +This is an old 'US Navy electronics repair depot' trick: To remove the '​dead/​old'​ electrolytic caps, Without heating, Grip the body of the cap with pliers, or fingers, and bend the entire body of the cap over to the PC board. In the Electrolytic caps, like the ones on the A9 board, the internal connection to the leads is made just inside the body of the cap and break off clean.... allowing you to pull the entire capacitor body off of the remaining two mounting leads left behind, still in the PC board. These single solid wire stubs are completely easy to heat, and quicly remove, from the pc board without damaging the PC board from excess heating. Don't worry if the solder hole is clear of left over solder, that gets taken care of in the next  TIP.
 +
 +Tip(2) After TIP(1), Heat one side of each PC board hole, with a pointed soldering iron tip that is centered on the hole. When the solder is melted, use a round (not flat) wooden toothpick, to push through all the melted solder from the opposite side of the hole. The solder does not stick to the wooden toothpick, and the toothpick tapered body displaces all the excess solder from inside the PC board hole. So, the PC hole is left open and solder free, and ready for new components to be inserted.
  
 WB2RHM WB2RHM
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 N1EU N1EU
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